At 6 we got up, threw on our clothes and raced out into the streets, which were still abuzz with the artisans - "infioratori" - frantically finishing up their carpets. They all looked exhausted, some slept (especially children) the rest still working hard, tweaking here and there, putting finishing touches on.
By 9 in the morning, most were finished and the streets began to fill to capacity as tourists worked their way along the route of the Infiorata and admired the handiwork, sometimes squeezing single file past carpets and infioratori to admire their work. They held Mass in the church around 10 and at 11 began the big procession around the city. The bishop and all the attendants came out of the church under an elaborate gold embroidered canopy, carrying the host and walking on the carpets, accompanied by music and singing, with the citizens and the tourists following along behind. We were so fortunate to have a bird's eye view of the procession from our room above the square! After about 2 hours, the procession ended and most of the carpets had been trampled so that what remained were only masses of crushed flower petals and the original paper templates showing through. It was a fleeting moment of beauty, the important part of which to our eyes, was the process, the joining together of many hands to joyfully create something lovely, proof that nothing lasts, once again, that life is short but wonderful and that one must enjoy each moment as it spreads itself before you.
By early afternoon the crowds had thinned, tourists moved on to next city, the next festival, the next hotel. We walked around taking photos of what remained and just enjoying being able to stay another night and enjoy the pretty city of Spello, snitching a small sample of one of the templates as a souvenir. As luck would have it, we ran into our friend Anna who teaches at the Universita per Stranieri, who was so helpful to us on our arrival, along with her friends Giuseppina and her husband, who invited us to wander along with them. (I must tell you sometime about our dinner with Anna and her friends, but that is another post!) Anna has lived here her entire life and knew little things about the city we did not know and so it was a great gift to see it through her eyes and learn things not found in the guidebooks. Throughout Umbria we have noticed much restoration work being done (we have kidded about the cranes and the scaffolding). What we did not really appreciate was the damage that was done to many of these cities in the earthquake a few years back. Everyone has heard of the damage that the cathedral in Assisi suffered but many of the cities in the area, like Spello, experienced some damage as well and are still working on restoring the beautiful churches and monuments that are in need of repair.
We are at home today, sleeping in, relaxing, no big plans - Bob is even sitting outside, reading a book! Our neighbor Catherine just came home from her classes. We just met the ladies who are in the apartment upstairs and hope to get to know them a bit over a glass of wine or a caffè. Life goes on.
Buona giornata,
Rosemary & Bob
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