In the Sibillini Mountains with Rita and Sergio

Monday, June 13, 2005

Yesterday we spent the most amazing day here in Umbria. It was a day we had planned at least a month ago with our landlords, Sergio and Rita and our next-door neighbor, Catherine. Sergio and Rita own these two apartments in this palazzo we live in. This is a four-story apartment building and there are at least 8 other apartments but they own only these two. They are lovely, lovely people and we feel so fortunate to have found this apartment here. I have talked about the grounds and the gardens and I think about the fact that they live in the entire top floor of a larger palazzo next to this one that has been in Sergio's family for years. They also own a country house that they rent out, just outside the city walls and another country house that is their weekend retreat near Spoleto, a short drive from Perugia.

We left here around 8:30 in the morning expecting to drive to Spoleto, see their country house and perhaps have lunch and return to Perugia. What we didn't expect was a grand tour of an area called the Valnerina here in Umbria that is in the Sibillini Mountains, an incredibly diverse mountain region that is part of the Apennines, a range of limestone hills that extends from Genoa down into Sicily. There is nothing so incredible as being shown around an area by people who were born in it and know all the little places that are off the beaten path. First stop was the Cascata delle Marmore - an artificial waterfall created by the Ancient Romans in three successive drops down sheer walls of marble (marmore), disappearing at the bottom of a wooded ravine. At certain times of the day they release the water, which begins as a gentle trickle and becomes a raging torrent of water rushing over ledges and around a lush wooded backdrop. It was absolutely breathtaking to witness.

Back in the car, on to the next, climbing higher and higher into the mountains as Sergio expertly maneuvered this two lane country road that wound around and around, passing some of the most incredible scenery in Umbria. Driving through dense forests, we suddenly encountered an ancient abbey tucked away like a jewel amid the greenery. L'Abbazia di San Pietro in Valle was built in the 4th and 5th centuries and is now also a luxurious resort. On the site is the ancient church with its roman sarcophagi, frescoes and art works to admire.

Climbing still further, looking down on farms nestled in valleys like a quilt thrown down for a picnic, we discovered the Santuario di Macerato, a 16th century complex with a circular church. After the man with the enormous keys opened the doors of the church at 4:30, Rita told us the story of the little chapel within the church. Apparently there was a group of men traveling from Naples by horseback and when they reached the spot where this church stands now, the horses laid down and refused to go any further. They considered this a miracle and a church was built on the spot. Inside the chapel we noticed many of these "exvoto" (I'm sure my spelling must not be correct - if you know, please tell me). The Mexican word that I know for these little charms is "Milagros" - usually in the shapes of body parts - arms, legs, eyes, etc. The charm is placed there, in my understanding, when a miracle is being prayed for, to cure some malady or illness.

One of the highlights of the day was when we reached the highest point, above Norcia, in the tiny town of Castelluccio di Norcia famous for its flower fields and the growing of lentils. The countryside surrounding this tiny village is just on the verge of fully blooming and we hope to return in a few weeks to see it in all its glory. The area is broken up into plots of yellows, reds, blues and we saw the colors just beginning to come forth. The green areas are so soft; they appear in the valley like a carpet of lush green velvet. The hillsides are beginning to turn a multitude of colors as the wildflowers start to bloom, surrounded by these towering mountains with their heads in the clouds. We sat at an outdoor restaurant and ate a simple lunch that was a sampling of the typical Umbrian cuisine - salami, cheese, lentil soup, artichokes, prosciutto, fried mozzarella and zucchini flowers, accompanied by a ceramic pitcher filled with local red wine.

The country home of Sergio and Rita is in the hills above Spoleto, another of Umbria's lovely hilltop cities. The area has been owned by Rita's family for generations and is broken up now into several home sites that they use as weekend and summer getaways. Her parents have an "Alpine" log cabin much like you would find in Flagstaff in northern Arizona, with a big wrap around porch and nestled in greenery but this one has comes complete with a small vineyard for their homemade wine - both white and red. A little path connects these homes and I walked arm in arm with Rita's mother, when she went back to set out the simple supper she had prepared for us. She spoke no English so I had to do my best communicating and it does become difficult to have more complex conversations than just the getting to know you stuff. Signora Zapelli attended the Academia delle Belle Arti and studied painting and music. She is in her 80s and still occasionally walks 6 km into town to do her shopping. Then her husband drives down and picks her up for the ride back. She stopped painting when her children were growing up because the demands of being a wife and mother took precedence over her desire to be an artist. Her paintings are all over Rita's house. Lovely still lifes of fruit and flowers, that she proudly showed me, knowing that I too loved to paint flowers. As you can imagine, I really wanted to talk with this woman! Rita and Sergio manage a little English when it's evident we can't understand what they are saying. Rita's English being better than Sergio's, although he can get a point across when he needs to. He told us that he is better at speaking than understanding and I can completely understand what he means.

Their country house was simpler than I expected but I can honestly say that if I had a country house, this would be exactly what I would want. It is an old stone building with dark stained doors and shutters and lace curtains. A rose bush climbs up the wall going over and around the window. The floors are ancient stone, a large wooden table sits on one side, surrounded by around a dozen chairs, a giant fireplace on the other with a bench that allows a part of it to fold down to create a sort of ledge in the middle so that if the weather is cold she and Sergio can sit and eat in front of the fire. The house is not heated so they don't go there in the winter. I can only imagine how cold it must get in the mountains when there is snow. Up a simple flight of stairs with no railings are the bedrooms. Large open rooms, plenty of light, simple antique furnishings. Absolutely lovely, cosy, warm and inviting. A beautiful reflection of these delightful people.

We arrived back home around 8:30 with kisses all around as farewell and a huge Grazie to Rita and Sergio from us and from Catherine as we wandered off to bed like children after Christmas when all the presents had been opened and played with to their heart's content.

Buona sera,
Rosemary & Robert