March 11, 2005 The Midwest

Friday, 3.11.05

Milwaukee, Wisconsin

We arrived in Milwaukee yesterday around noon - earlier than we had expected because we encountered a bit of weather in Madison. We had planned to spend yesterday morning exploring the lovely city of Madison, which sits on an isthmus between two lakes and is home to the University of Wisconsin, Madison and the State Capitol. We read that the view from the Convention Center is really beautiful and we wanted to explore the historic downtown.

We had really pushed it on Tuesday, driving all the way across South Dakota and into Minnesota and by that day’s end were quite exhausted. The Badlands in South Dakota are not to be missed if you are in that area. We stopped at every viewpoint along the way and were awed by the changing colors and shapes that make up this landscape that at one time (billions and skillions of years ago) was a jungle. The mounds and hills and craggy rock formations are a layered landscape with bands of reds and golds in places that appear to have been painted on and set down amid the grays and tans. Again, as far as the eye can see in all directions. It was quite cold there and we found ourselves alone with the landscape, except for herds of deer and hawks circling. Breathtaking.

Arriving at the first hotel we could find around 8pm (not the best place so far!) we fell into bed exhausted and promised that we would not drive so many hours in one day again. Somewhere along the way we passed into a different time zone and it was suddenly an hour later to boot!

Our destination for Wednesday was Madison. We got up early Wednesday morning and drove across the state of Wisconsin, which is primarily farmland. After the craggy and majestic west and the rolling grasslands of South Dakota, the farmlands were a change for us. It is quite a sight to see these farms, one after the other, sometimes several clustered fairly close to each other, other huge farms with giant silos – several in some cases spread out across the countryside. We speculated at how the colors would be different in summer when crops sway in the breeze and the trees are green. But, we completely enjoyed the colors of winter – the lacy trees, golden and brownish fields, dark of the barks and grey and rolling clouds above it all. It was very dramatic and beautiful. We contemplated the reasons why farmers paint their barns red and why they all plant trees in a cluster around their homes, why in some cases the farm sits up close to the road and others are set far back. Horses grazed in fields and cows languished in the afternoon sun. Bucolic was the word that kept coming to mind.

Going from Minnesota to Wisconsin you cross the Mighty Mississippi (the day before we had seen the Mighty Missouri – I guess they like the word “mighty” in these parts). We had the radio on a classical station and just as we went over a bridge across the Mississippi the music reached a crescendo in the most dramatic way and we just had to laugh, it was so fitting for this river with such a big reputation! There is a scenic drive you can take from the pretty city of Winona south to La Cross, Wisconsin that hugs the banks of the river. We especially liked the city of La Cross. Huge Victorian homes surround the downtown and a river walk takes you up close and personal to the river (it was freezing cold there – parts of the river are still frozen over even though it is mid-March!). We toured the city in the warmth of our car, jumping out to photograph interesting details and then proceeded on our way.

It was late afternoon when we arrived in Madison. We drove around the city enjoying the fact that there were many cute restaurants and shops and historic building and neighborhoods to explore, checked into our hotel and relaxed for a while before heading out to find a nice restaurant where we could have a leisurely meal. We were not disappointed. We found this wonderful place called “Fyfe’s Corner Bistro” a short way from the hotel. It is in an historic warehouse building and the décor was simple and lovely. Brick floors and lots of windows – as accents in the restaurant and as dividers between areas, they had used the old doors from the offices in the warehouse and they created a simple and attractive accent. The service was impeccable and the food delicious and beautifully presented. We drank a glass of wine and shared a piece of key lime pie (to die for). Afterwards we drove around the city in the dark enjoying the lights and looking forward to the next day.

Unfortunately, we awoke to a blanket of snow with more coming down so we decided we better get on the road and head for Milwaukee which wasn’t that far away and get there before it got any worse. Not a bad thing really because we were able to see Jessica earlier, see the theatre she’s working in and have a nice lunch in Milwaukee. (I probably haven’t mentioned it, but lunch on the road up to now has been a VERY simple affair). We have always enjoyed Milwaukee’s cute downtown and the lovely old buildings they are beginning to turn into lofts. It’s so great to see these old cities revitalizing their downtown areas. (Makes me miss Phoenix!)

I fixed dinner last night and we just watched TV and relaxed here with our lovely daughter and her sweet husband. We will be here until Monday or Tuesday and plan to make the best of it. The weather today is cold but sunny with blue skies all around so it should be a good day to explore.

Thinking of all of you!
Keep in touch,
Rosemary & Bob

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